The Glow Guide: Which Acids Your Skin Really Needs (and Why)

We’ve all been there, drowning our face in that viral exfoliator and instantly regretting it for days. As a professional skincare specialist with over eight years working for some of the biggest luxury beauty brands, I’ll admit it: I’ve also (in sheer desperation) drenched my skin in liquid acids (that famous BHA toner), hoping it would dry out my hormonal acne. Instead, it made everything worse.

The Importance of Exfoliation

One of the most common questions I get asked is: Can I exfoliate my skin? The short answer is yes, absolutely. Exfoliation is amazing for your skin, and I especially recommend it once you hit your thirties. It helps sweep away dead skin cells, keeps pores from clogging, smooths out texture, and gives you that healthy glow we’re all chasing. Regular exfoliation also boosts cell turnover, which means your serums and treatments like vitamin C or retinol actually penetrate better. For those of us with melanin-rich skin, chemical exfoliants such as AHAs and BHAs are much safer than the old-school harsh scrubs we grew up with.

Why Over-Exfoliation Happens

But if exfoliation is so good for us, why do so many of us end up with irritated, angry skin after trying it? The simple reason is over-exfoliation. When you overdo it, you damage your skin barrier, worsen hyperpigmentation, and basically send your skin into meltdown. And let me tell you, when your skin is unhappy, it doesn’t whisper; it screams. That’s why I always remind people to match their exfoliant to their skin type. If your skin is dry or sensitive, go for gentler acids like lactic or polyhydroxy. If you’re oily or acne-prone, salicylic acid or a lower-strength glycolic can work wonders.

Finding the Right Balance

Once you know what works for you, it’s all about balance. Slot exfoliation into your weekly routine, but don’t overdo it. Usually, one to three times a week is plenty. So, let’s break down the acids and what they actually do.

Understanding Different Acids

Lactic acid (AHA) is gentle but effective, making it a brilliant choice for dry or dehydrated skin. It removes dead skin cells without stripping, leaving your complexion smoother and more refreshed.

Glycolic acid (AHA) is the powerhouse of the AHAs. It’s the most active of the group, boosting collagen while helping the skin look firmer and more even. Think of it as your go-to for tackling dullness and fine lines.

Malic acid (AHA) is a softer resurfacer that supports collagen and gives the skin a healthy glow without causing too much drama. It’s perfect if you want a boost but have skin that doesn’t love being pushed too hard.

Salicylic acid (BHA) is coming for your breakouts. It dives deep into pores to tackle blackheads, spots, and congestion. Stronger than it first appears, it can be surprisingly gentle when used correctly and consistently.

Polyhydroxy acids (PHA) are the heroes for sensitive skin or anyone who struggles with irritation. They exfoliate at a slower, softer pace while drawing in hydration, which helps your moisturiser and serums work even better.

Personal Recommendations

Personally, I lean toward PHAs (my skin is very sensitive) and usually use them twice a week. However, Sundays are reserved for my favourite, Medik8 Sleep Glycolic. It’s my little ritual, and it never fails to leave me waking up with smoother, glowier skin. My partner, on the other hand, swears by BHAs for keeping stubborn ingrown hairs at bay.

The point is there’s no one-size-fits-all solution. It’s about finding what works best for your skin and using it with care. When you strike the right balance, exfoliation isn’t scary or overwhelming; it’s simply the secret to healthier, brighter, more confident skin.

Acid Heroes

Below are my acid heroes. (Click to View and Buy)

Universal Daily Peel

Medik8 Press & Glow

The Gentle Acid

Paulas Choice

paula's choice

medicube

some by mi

medik8